Interlocking concrete paver blocks are now the most common surface for home driveways, society parking, factory yards and petrol pumps. They look neat, carry vehicle loads well and can be lifted and relaid when pipes or cables need repair. But pavers last only as long as the base beneath them. This guide covers block selection, the layers below and the laying process.
1. Why pavers
- Carry vehicle loads by spreading them through the interlock between blocks
- Easy to repair: lift a patch, fix the problem, relay the same blocks
- Can be used immediately after laying, with no curing time
- Available in many shapes and colours for parking marking and design
- Joints allow some rainwater to seep through, and permeable designs are available
2. Choosing the right block
- Thickness: thinner blocks suit footpaths and gardens; driveways and car parking generally need thicker blocks, and areas used by trucks need heavy-duty blocks
- Strength: buy from manufacturers who test blocks to IS 15658 and can share test results
- Shape: zig-zag, I-shape and similar interlocking shapes resist shifting under turning vehicles
- Pattern: herringbone patterns lock best for vehicle areas
- Finish and colour: pigmented blocks keep colour better; check for uniform colour across batches
3. The layers beneath
- Subgrade: excavate to the required level, remove soft or organic soil and compact the natural ground
- Sub-base and base: layers of compacted crushed stone or granular material, thicker for heavier traffic
- Bedding sand: a uniform layer of coarse sand, screeded level but not compacted before laying
- Edge restraint: kerb stones or concrete edges that stop blocks from spreading outwards
- Slope and drainage: a gentle fall towards drains so water never stands on the surface
Weak or uneven bases cause most paver failures: sinking ruts, rocking blocks and pooling water. Our soil testing guide and road drainage guide explain why the ground and water matter.
4. Laying process
- Fix edge restraints first
- Lay blocks on the screeded sand in the chosen pattern, starting from a straight edge
- Keep joints narrow and even; cut edge blocks neatly with a block cutter
- Compact the surface with a vibratory plate compactor
- Spread fine, dry sand over the surface and brush it into the joints
- Compact again and top up the joint sand until joints are full
5. Maintenance
- Sweep regularly and refill joint sand where it washes out
- Remove weeds from joints early
- Clean oil stains promptly
- Relay any sunken area by lifting blocks, correcting the base and relaying
For roads and larger parking areas, compare with our road repair and maintenance guide. Factories planning yards can also read the industrial shed and warehouse planning guide, and solar carports over parking areas are covered by ATTPL Solar.
Frequently asked questions
Can pavers be laid on old concrete?
It is possible with a suitable bedding layer and drainage, but the existing slab’s levels and cracks must be checked first. A fresh granular base is often more reliable.
Why are my pavers sinking?
Usually because of poor base compaction, soft subgrade, missing edge restraint or water collecting under the blocks.
Are pavers better than a concrete driveway?
Pavers are easier to repair and look more decorative; a well-built concrete slab has fewer joints. The right choice depends on loads, budget and maintenance preferences.
Planning a driveway, parking or yard? Contact ATTPL HOLDCO or visit ATTPL Infra.
Sources
This article is general information, not professional advice. Please get the pavement design from a qualified engineer for your site and traffic.
